13.9.08

(Another Big) Nicosia vs Limassol Debate (again)


We have all heard the (ridiculous) joke that goes: ‘what’s the most valuable site in Nicosia? The sign that says: To Limassol’. The rivalry between Limassol and Nicosia is funny at best. Despite this, there is still a deep seated rivalry between the people of the two cities. People from Limassol will tell you that LMS is better than Nicosia and every city in Cyprus. I’ll agree that is it a lot easier living there than in Nicosia; there’s the sea, it’s wealthier, you drive in straight lines and it’s more laid back. But I’ll have to agree that Paphos is the nicest city in Cyprus. But any other town other than Nicosia and Limassol is instantly regarded as small and provincial and is disregarded from the debate.

Nicosian’s will tell you a) that LMS is better or b) that true Limassol is nicer but… why do Limassolians have to keep saying so? To Nicosian eyes, Limassolians come to Nicosia and compare and criticise. First on the list is: no sea. Nicosians will say ‘yeah but you’re city has ugly beaches.’ Then the Limassol guy takes out his Kalashnikov.

I think Limassol is great. But for work Nicosia is better. My standard of living in Limassol would be higher but my pay won’t be as high as in Nicosia. It’s a double-edged sword. I also think that Nicosia, was once very pretty; we see this with the walled city and with the amount of greenery there is in the city. No other Cypriot city has this. But it has been divided, then rebuilt hazardously and its main areas have been left to disrepair, giving the city anodd modern/ex-war-zone feel. And so it is not as picturesque. Nicosia is not as pretty as Limassol, but it doesn’t mean I don’t like it. It has parks (I love the Linear Park), it has great coffee-shops, a growing art scene and a plethora of shops. True the traffic is suffocating, the pavements are cracked or non-existent, it’s a big city in a small, cramped space and there are no ‘escapes’ from city life. In short, it’s Cyprus’ only urban area. With Limassol you still get a touch of the resort and of new money; of shipping and hotels and dodgy Russian businesses. In Nicosia, its elite is old money; plantations and art and the establishment.

When in Nicosia do as the Nicosians. There is no point behaving one way when everyone else behaves another. Integrate yourself. True Nicosians are no as friendly as say, Paphos. But that’s because Paphos is small, with a village/small town mentality where everyone knows each other. Nicosia is corporate where 70% of the labour force work for the state. Who has time for nice? I know I don’t unless you give me a bottle of wine; which is why there are lots of bars.

But I also think Nicosians are to blame for not looking after the city. It’s my city now and I want more results. The Mayor, Eleni Mavrou is great. But still, Nicosia is lacking not only what other capitals have but what other towns in Cyprus have. Ayia Napa has a bus system. Paphos has water. Limassol has a great coastal road. Nicosia has the walled city, and small areas like the Engomi strip, Kallipoleos, Plati, and the Mall. But what about our city centre? They are going to re-do Plateia Eleftherias by an architect who never visited the area! And it’s going to be concrete and have an underpass. Do you know how dangerous and unappealing underpasses are? So we are reconstructing our area wrongly.



There is no tourism in Nicosia. Is it because there is nothing to see or because there are no hotels? There are things to see, but are not promoted or provided for and there are about three hotels and a few smaller ones. The city is not pedestrian-friendly, there are few open spaces and not enough resources for tourists. They say when the tourists come they’ll do all this. Well why would they come if there is nothing to see and do? Fix it first and the tourists will follow. Why isn’t the street next to Ledra filled with shops? Wouldn’t it be nice if there were coffee shops and such lined up there? Nicosia has not taken advantage of its assets.

Limassol was smart by capitalizing on the Russians and Arabs who brought money to the city. In effect they funded Limassol. Limassol made what it could of the promenade and the coastal road. It has built more sporting venues and capitalized on areas around hotels. That is why there is no actual centre in Limassol. Commerical areas run along central roads. O Paraliakos, Kolonakiou (which has only just become popular), Griva Digeni, Makariou, Enaerios and Anexartisias. That is not to say they are perfect though. Anexartisia has a lot to be desired and desperately needs a make-over. But with the creation of the University, the Marina and Castle area will only enhance Limassol’s image. This will not be to the detriment of Nicosia but to the strength of Cyprus.

And what Nicosia needs is not more development but redevelopment. We have great infrastructure in Nicosia, we have huge avenues, a mall, massive government buildings but we don't have pavements in soem areas or even proper parking facilities. Once these are dealt with we will have a people-friendly city for the capital we all love, even if some of us are jealous of it, or hate it or love it nevertheless.

But the next day I had an arguement with someone about Nicosia that left me fuming...

No comments: