The Times on Omonia Square

Omonia Square, Athens
By John Carr, Times correspondent

Omonia Square is not what it used to be. Older Greeks still remember it from about 1960 to 1990 as the glitzy bustling heart of modern Athens, its neon signs featured in almost every Greek film of the period. But when the Albanian border burst open in 1991 Omonia Square quickly became the abode of young Albanian unemployed men lounging everywhere, too quick to turn to crime.

It was not uncommon to find human excrement on then disused escalators to the Omonia underground station. Now there's a spanking new Metro station, the escalators are working and clean, but the area still is home to pickpockets and druggies - mainly Albanians, Asians and African hookers, especially at night.

Tourists are generally not molested, though it's wise to keep money and valuables well hidden. The square's souvlaki joints are worth a visit - on condition that you don't go around looking like a typical tourist!

Disputed Art

The British Museum’s argument is that the Parthenon Marbles can be viewed as part of the world civilization whereas in Athens only as Athenian civilization. However the reason for seeing the Marbles as part of a discourse on the world’s various civilizations is because the British Museum has various artifacts from all over the world; due to colonization. Yet this argument is redundant, thanks to globalization. Tourism is a phenomenon of globalization; and as more people pour into Athens they would be able to see the whole Frieze in the context it came from. To see part of Marble in Athens juxtaposed alongside pieces of Rome and Egypt may lend a momentary insight into what the world has produced in terms of art and civilization but it is completely out of scope and context - especially when you leave the museum and step into the London drizzle.